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In June, I tuned-up a Challenge 21MP for Andrew Huot at Big River Bindery in Davenport, Iowa. He also has an Asbern ADR-1 that had a gummed up oscillator. I hadn’t service one before, so this was a great opportunity to see what it’s innards look like. The main difference is the the crescent is set into a collar that is attached to the end of the tube at with socket head caps screws.
We at Tweedle Press have moved on to greener pastures and although we are reluctant to part with our beloved equipment – we feel certain that they would be happier to be used more often. See below for a list of the major pieces we are selling out of our house in Woolwich, Maine (about 45 minutes north of Portland) and their conditions. First priority will go to entire shop buys (for which we are willing to provide a discount!) and local pickup, of course. Buyer pays moving fees. We are hoping to clear out by the middle of August! Please email with questions.
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I am in the process of purchasing a Hacker 4, and would like advice on what durometer measurement the form rollers should be for printing mainly type or photopolymer plates. Perhaps the durometer would be the same for a Vandercook press. Any advice would be welcome.
From a suggestion by A.J. Masthay and a list provided by Daniel Morris, I’ve begun to compile a data table of replacement parts and their sources for Vandercook power carriage presses. All owners and operators of power carriage presses—including other brands are invited to add information. This table can be found under the maintenance menu at top and via this link.
I am restoring a Hacker #4 and I am missing a part. It is a bar that connects the cylinder to the bed trip lever. I have a picture of the part on another Hacker, and mine without it. If someone out there has the measurements of this part and can post it here, I would be thankful! If not I will be making it by trial and error.
I am in the process of buying a Hacker 4 proof press. I’m not new to letterpress printing, but I am new to cylinder presses, and having the manual for this press would really help me learn to use it. Does anyone have a manual, or know where I might find one? Thanks!
A new gremlin has reared its head with my Universal 3, I’m having trouble with the cycle start button. Sometimes when the button is pushed nothing happens, if I hold it down it seems to eventually start the cycle and the time I need to hold it down varies from a second or two to what seems like forever. I dont believe its a short in the button itself because if I switch it to manual mode there is no movement using the toggle switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I produce limited edition woodcuts on a 15KA Challenge Proof press and in the middle of a run for some reason the ‘top’ element on the block registers with image on the sheet and the ‘lower’ element on the block is printing 3/16th if an inch off register (lower on the sheet). The distance between elements on the block is 3 1/2″ and print 3 11/16″ apart on the sheet. HELP!
Would anyone be able to confirm that the #4c, made under licence in the UK has the same roller diameter of 2.5″ of the #4?
I’m assuming that it does, but thought it best to check before I get them recovered incase they turn out to be wrong. Better safe than sorry!
I have been cleaning up an old Vandercook #2 Proofing Press and have some question regarding the real rods, packing, and the clamp bars.
First, the press has 2 real rods. I assume one is for packing and the other is for a top sheet? Is this for easy change out?
Second, I was wondering what the best backing would be? I am use to using oiled Tympan as packing covered with a piece of Mylar. Is there any better suggestions or does it depend on what you are use to?
Third, the bottom clamp bar has 3 raised pegs sticking out. This is the side that goes down toward the impression cylinder, but there is no holes to receive the pegs. Does it just sit at an angle? I have attached some pictures of this.
I thought I’d give my Universal III a good cleaning after it had sat idle for a good deal of the winter while doing some home remodeling. I started out cleaning out the gear racks and noticed that the carriage latch was pretty loose and no spring tension. I pulled it off and found the spring had been sheared into many separate pieces. Fortunately Fritz has a replacement coming my way, but I thought I’d post a photo as I had not seen anything like this before.
I am looking for a couple parts for a VandercookSP15. The picture helps illustrate what I need (I hope). I drew arrows to the area in which the assembly is supposed to be. I need the assembly that has a couple screws (those I actually have) and some fiberglass sort of material and metal almost hooks? Sorry I don’t have a part number or a name to this part. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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