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For those of you that use Patmag bases, what do you do to keep your steel-backed plates from moving? I have a pretty large solid – about 15″ x 4″ – that I’m running and I discovered, upon running the second color, that the plate had continually moved throughout the run. Makes registration a damn pain, that’s for sure.
Anyone try spray mount? I know that would mess up minute registration adjustments, but I need something to keep the stupid thing from moving, even minutely.
I put some scotch tape on just to see what would happen and you can see how it’s shifting and torquing. This isn’t even the big plate (and ignore the messy plate; I was hand-rolling).
Has anyone found a replacement source for wash-up blades? Any leads or even blade specs would be greatly appreciated!
Geffken appears in catalogs and model brochures of the era such as this one at right. (R.L. Pelland, another engineer, is believed to be second from the left).
Tagged with: Geffkin
The oscillating roller on one of our SP-15 presses began hesitating this week, out of the blue, just like the video posted in January. For that poster, it seemed the solution was a new belt. However, both the motor and belt on our press are relatively new, so I figured that might not be the solution for us. Our motor was completely replaced a couple of years ago (I blogged about it here), and the pulley now uses a V belt. I double checked the belt today and found it had worn loose and was slipping; it was also out of alignment with the drum cylinder. There are rubber shavings where the belt has worn against the pulley, maybe because it is out of alignment. We were able to get it back into alignment fairly easily, but the belt is still loose. When the new motor was installed, it was not the same shape as the old one, and had to be mounted to the base a different way. They did not put in slots so that the motor can be moved slightly to take up slack in the belt. My machine shop neighbor (how handy is that?) has told me that if he can remove the bottom of that well where the motor lives, he can drill slots for us. He thinks that he can remove this “well” by releasing a pin (see photo) on either side. Is that doable? I also figured to replace the V belt with a gear belt, which is what is in our other SP-15 which seems to have the original motor/drive system. A quicker solution might be to get a slightly smaller belt, but I would prefer a longer-term fix, if possible.
I have come across this amazing magnetic rubber sheet eg on ebay(probably for making fridge magnets), from various thicknesses , for example starting at 0.4 mm, I’m going to use it on my treadle platen press instead of a manilla tympan especially as in my damp garage this cockles, it is easy to clean, I will be using quads stuck on with a paste glue for registration as it would not be possible to stick register pin lays through it. It seems quite a firm surface, so I was wondering if anyone has ever tried it as tympan drawsheet replacement on a cylinder proofing press, it would avoid all the complications cutting out a draw sheet and trying to fit to the reel rod, especially if using stiff mylar. Probably not the best idea for a power fed printing press but possibly feasible for a hand wound cylinder press, just cut it out to the correct dimensions and roll it on, easier for make ready under it to?
Thoughts are welcome, probably someone has tried it, just that I haven’t read about it.Best wishes all.
I got a call from our local art center that the grippers on the V15-21 rise unevenly with the ones closest to the handle lower than the others. They assembly has been taken apart and cleaned. Anyone have any idea what might be the problem or where I should start looking? Cross listing on the letterpress list. Thanks – Neil
Alas, the taper pin for the handle of my newly acquired SP-20 disappeared during transit. Can anyone provide any specs? It looks like I could order one from Grainger or maybe NA Graphics has originals?
Tagged with: sp20
I made the first adjustments to the lower two eccentrics on either side of the carriage today, gaining a much more even impression across the width of the bed. Special thanks to Gerald Lange, Fritz Klinke, and others for their very helpful posts/articles here on the Blog re: this topic.
The remaining issue, which I am not clear on how to resolve, is unevenness of impression down the LENGTH of the bed. When running a test sheet through, the impression “fades” slowly away down the length of the sheet. Can this be remedied through further carriage bearing adjustment, or is there a different adjustment required?
Thank you in advance for your help.
St Brigid Press
Greetings! I’m looking for advice regarding a retaining screw that has partially worked its way out of the bearing block on the operator side of the front form roller on our SP-15. Any suggestions for best practices in terms of returning the screw to its proper location? It doesn’t seem to want to budge… in any direction! Many thanks in advance.
This is my first post, and hopefully will be resolved simply. Thank you in advance for any and all feedback.
My press, when set to auto cycle, does not engage the trip mechanism on the return of the carriage. The image will print ever so slightly on the tympan (depending on my packing depth). The issue seems to be that the carriage does not travel far enough back to pass over and clear the rear trip wedge. The mystery is that when set to manual, it does just fine and there is no problem.
My press does have a repositionable gripper opener cam, and the position of this does not change the problem. My press does not have adjustable carriage bumpers.
I’m not sure what is happening. Any insight will be helpful!
Tagged with: auto cycle
I recently acquired a Reprex
No. 2 [No. 1] proof press. While everything on this Reprex appears to be in excellent shape, it is in fact missing the drive gear on it’s form roller. The original manual I have specifies that there should only be one drive gear, and the part number for this gear is D48 on the Reprex parts list.
Assuming I won’t be able to locate a replacement part off another press, it looks like I’ll need to have one made. I need to determine proper specs for the gear, since the gear rack and roller cores differ from those on the Vandercooks I have access to. Unlike many of the Vandercooks I’ve seen, the gear rack for the inking system on the Reprex appears to have the same tooth pattern as the gear racks for the entire carriage. What I know at this point is that the diameter or my roller cores are 0.5″ and the roller diameters are 2.5″. There’s an image below of the gear rack for the missing drive gear for measurement purposes.
I’m hoping some other Reprex owners may be able to offer some insight on replacing this drive gear in whatever way possible. I’m thinking I should be able to have a new gear machined if I can supply a gear diameter and correct number of teeth to correlate with the gear rack on the press. Or perhaps the gear/rack is a standardized part that may be readily available?
I’d greatly appreciate any and all info anyone may be able to share. I need to (hopefully!) get this press up and running for a visiting artist by mid-March, so I’m trying to tackle it as soon as possible.