A video…

This is the most recent press to cross the threshold at The Arm. It didn’t take too much fiddling to replace the microswitches across the back of the press, clean out the control box and get it cycling back and forth, but it is pausing for a full five second count at the feed board (should be .5 to 2.5 according to the manual) and I have yet to get the automatic grippers running. This is my first proper dive into the control box and I am no longer nearly as intimidated as I had been by the jumble of contactors, fuses and wiring hiding in there. I’d love to hear from anyone else with experience messing with these power carriage presses.

Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

Donald Kerr at University of Otago [New Zeeland], informed me of his institution’s Vandercook made by Pre Press Ltd. of London. His photos show a carriage nameplate stating that it is a No.4. However, the cabinet and feed board styling (and presumedly the inking system were it present) is that of a 215. Interested readers may recall my February 04 entry English-made Hybrid concerning another Pre Press-made Vandercook, which had a No.4 cabinet but a 215 feed board, and where the model name was left blank on the carriage name plate.

The grippers work fine on our SP-15 when we use the foot pedal to insert the paper, but they do not properly release the paper at the end of the print. Other than adding some shims behind the bracket that activates the gripper lever at the end of the print action, is there another method of adjusting the grippers?

The oscillating metal roller on my recently acquired #4 has been having a little bit of trouble making making its way back and forth when I ink up. It was sticking just as it reached it closest position to the operator, when the worm gear was no longer visible, I guess at the point where it makes the transition to go back the other way.
I took apart the roller assembly and the worm gear to give it a good clean, and I noticed that a couple of the points of the worm gear seem to be worn down or chipped so that they are no longer pointy. I suspect that the crescent is catching on these worn areas, rather that gliding past them smoothly.
My question, I guess, is can I just file down the points on the worm gear to make them pointy again, or is this a bad idea. The crescent looks ok, so I don’t suspect it is that. If I can’t make those transistion points smoohter somehow, I may need a new worm gear. Is this pricey? Is it something kept in stock?
Anyone else out there with worm gear issues? Any tips would be much appreciated, thanks.

My newly purchased SP-15 is now moved into its new home and I’ve been able to take a close look at it for the first time (I bought it based only on photos so couldn’t see all details). It looks to be in very good shape (no rust or dents) with no major parts missing. It also came with tools and roller setting gauge, which is nice. However, it has obviously not been used for some years and unfortunately was not kept covered so it is full of dust inside everywhere. I think many parts, if not all, will need to be removed for a very thorough cleaning before its operational state can be fully assessed. As a novice, this is a little daunting as I’m not particularly mechanically-minded. I do have the owner’s manual and have read everything about maintenance recommended here and elsewhere. Still, I’m hesitating before taking the plunge. I’d much appreciate any general advice about undertaking this project. Thanks!

This blog is six months old. Thank you to all the registered users, you now number 83. Together we have generated 55 posts (viewed over 10,000 times) and 254 comments. While these numbers are small, some good information has been captured and catagorized for the common goal of extending the life of these presses.

To raise the value of individual contributions, I ask that you please review your user profile and fill-in your real name and website address (if any). By doing so, other members may give greater credence to your posts and comments. As always, email addresses are not viewable.

This is also an appeal for your data to increase the Vandercook Census. It now stands at 504 presses, less than one hundred shy of Fritz’s estimate of 600 still existing worldwide. Could the actual number be higher? Help me find out.

Onward.

i just bought a lovely vandercook 4, there is a vice grip spring loaded attached to the bar that runs across the width of the press under the bed…when i return the carriage, the vice grip engages and makes a clunking sound. what gives? the previous owner said he thinks there was some problem with the trip setting. just wondering if anyone has encountered this problem and has any advice! thanks

I have just acquired the above press, and am looking for people who have experience using one. The serial number is 8596. I want to use it for printing invitations and other small pieces.

This is a tabletop, hand-ink press with a crank and a 16×21 bed. I cannot seem to find a visual of it on the Press Models Index on the Vandercook site. If anyone has info, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

I have a disassembled 320 who’s missing a few parts. I have no idea where they went to, probably some sculpture kid ran off with them. Anyway, as I see it I have 3 options. 1] find replacement parts from a scrap press 2] machine new parts based on actual pieces or plans 3] sell the sellable parts . Ironically, the lockup bar & the entire iniking assembly is present and accounted for, except for needing recovering. I don’t know what’s wisest here, so any advice or help is appreciated.

thanks much,
alex brooks
press eight seventeen
lexington kentucky

The parts missing are:

cylinder trip plate
NS-357 PLATE
NS-344 CYL. TRIP WEDGE
NR-231 SHAFT
NS-444 safety bar
[other attached small parts]

trip bar

NS351 TRIP BAR

gripper trip rod

LR79 GRIPPER TRIP ROD

LS112 GRIPPER TRIP CONN.

LR80 PUSH ROD

cylinder trip plate
gripper trip rod

My manual for the Universal III shows that it was available with either a 42 inch or 30 inch feed board. Both of my Universal IIIs have the longer one, but also have a bed extension at the far end of the press bed. This makes the press akwardly long and difficult to get around in my studio. My option is either to eliminate the bed extension (this requires modification of the adjustable bed mechanism) or shorten the feed board.
So my question is this- does anyone have a Universal III with the shorter 30 inch feed board? Do you find it to be sufficient?

Thanks,
Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

Hello, I have just purchased a Vandercook model SP-15. I’m just starting out in letterpress printing and have taken some workshops but hadn’t expected to be owning a press of my own quite yet. But as luck will have it, I had one fall on me, so to speak. My question is, I’m going to be setting up my shop in a room adjacent to my garage which has a wood floor covered with linoleum. I believe the floor is structurally strong enough to hold the press (and I’ll be checking with a contractor to make sure), but I’m wondering if I can safely set the press directly on the linoleum or would putting a rubber mat or some other type of material down first be adviseable? I’d like to protect the surface from denting if possible, but ultimately of course having the press work properly is more important than the floor. Thanks for any comments.