The airlines have conspired to strand me in the NY area. So I decided to send you all a note from red hook. Unfortunately, I won’t have time to visit the Arm this time, but i did spend a week at the Dale Guild in NJ, and took some pictures of Theo’s vandercook block leveler. I thought it was interesting, and i bet you will too. Enjoy – alex

I finally have found a side guide for the last of the seven Vandercooks here at The Arm, but it appears to be missing some pieces. I am not very familiar with this style of side guide so can anyone tell me (or show me) what it is that I am missing? I think this comes from a 219, but I will be using it on a Universal III.

Thanks,
Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

In this photo from a Vandercook & Sons exhibit at the American Photoengravers Association convention there is a press shown with a reciprocating bed. Is this in the era of the Hacker buyout, or did Vandercook make a press with a travelling bed?

Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

Hi, I’m currently printing on a friend’s Vandercook Universal One press. However, when the temperature drops in the shop and I have a good amount of ink on the rollers, the back form roller gear appears to miss the teeth in the track and will ride atop of it creating a frightening grinding noise. Neither the gear nor the teeth in the track seem to be worn. A fellow printer surmised that the tackiness of the ink is causing the form rollers to stick to the cylinder thereby not allowing the gear to engage properly. Does anyone else have this problem? Anyway to minimize it without taking ink off? Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. -T

Comments are applicable to the No.4

Need as much specific information on the Vandercook #215 form roller mechanism function. The one I’m trying to troubleshoot is at the Atlanta Printmakers Studio. The roller mechanism that propels the rollers as it traverses the press bed will not disengage when it returns to the feedboard, and as a result the rear form roller grabs when it contacts the ink drum. Can someone provide input that will help us to solve the problem.

Norman J. Wagner
Professor Emeritus
Atlanta College of Art

As some of you are aware, I recently hauled my No. 3 from the eastern shore of Maryland to my new home in Kentucky. Having thanked my lucky stars that the truck did not tip over (more on this in a later post), I am now faced with trying to restore my beautiful beast. Overall the press is in tip top shape, but to be expected there is a decent layer of grime and cobwebs from top to bottom. I read previous posts stating that I should not remove anything that I can not easily reattach. No problem there.

My question is: What is generally considered to be the best method for cleaning the bed, the oscillating rollers, etc? I remember an old friend using a polish cloth on the bumpers of his 69 Mustang and I wonder if something similar would work for the press. Also, what method would one use for the painted portions of the press? A few of you have seen this press and it appears to have a very unique paint job, almost like an emerald flake. I want to ensure that it remains on the press so if leaving it alone is the best course of action, I am prepared to do so.

Thank you as always. Let the fun begin.

Chris

Howdy Vandercookers! I was directed here by Daniel Morris of The Arm Letterpress. I’ve found a Potter Proof press locally in NJ and am considering purchasing it. Most of my work is small-run and wood-type based, so having a printing bed larger than my 8×12 platen is a big plus. But, I know really nothing about these presses. I’ve worked a fair amount on some Vandercooks, so I get the basics of a cylinder press.

From the illustrations in the ‘23 ATF catalog, I believe the press for sale is a Potter #2. I’m basing this solely off the foot-lever design. Next time I’m at the guy’s shop, I’ll get some pictures and post them. It was pretty dark in there so I couldn’t really read the nameplate.

So, any info on that press would be helpful. How’s the impression? Is inking via brayer a real pain in the neck? What is this press worth, anyway?

Thanks for any help you guys can provide!

Update: I’ve added a few pictures of the press. It looks pretty good to me, but, like I said, I’m a novice. The cylinder just move, but it’s pretty stiff. Probably some oil/grease should fix that. The printer said he hadn’t used it in over 40 years.

I received an email from a gentleman who recently acquired a Universal I and is having difficulty finding an SAE 20 wt oil, the grade specified in most operator manuals. Like many printers, I first used 3-in-One oil. Some Vandercooks like, Daniel Morris’s 320, even have a plaque on the carriage reading “Use 3-in-One Oil” I later learned that it comes in two formulations: the well known multi-purpose household oil in the black and white bottle and a true SAE 20 wt in a blue and white bottle for 1/4 hp motors. The multi-purpose oil is sold in three sizes 3oz, 4oz and 8oz., but the 20 wt comes only in the 3 oz size. It’s priced between $2.50 and $3.50 depending on the retailer.

The 1/4 hp motor on my No.4 needs to have the oil topped off weekly. For this reason I sought a more economical substitute and tried an SAE 5W-20 automotive motor oil. A technician via the ASMOIL website told me that it should be a great replacement, and offered this explanation:

Oil viscosity is measured at 210 degrees F, which is the operating temperature of an internal combustion engine. The SAE 20 is the same viscosity as a 5W-20 motor oil at 210 degrees. Products with the “W” are tested using a different method at colder temperatures to measure the way an oil thickens.

Detergent additives in automotive motor oil neutralize acid build up from the exposure to the by products of combustion and keep particulate from becoming harmful to moving parts. This particulate comes from combustion of fuel. So these additives won’t have any effect on you application either negatively or positively.

Vandercook sold a High Pressure Dripless oil, which is still available from NA Graphics. I thought it much too thick. Fritz says that it is a “way oil”—-the same type used for lathes.