Comments on: Cleanup?? http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/ »A forum for flatbed cylinder proof presses Sat, 22 Nov 2008 04:51:51 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.3 By: Paul Moxon, Moderator http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/#comment-1448 Paul Moxon, Moderator Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:55:17 +0000 http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/#comment-1448 Chris: The next thing to consider is the form roller bearing blocks. The original blocks were made of brass and the holes were bored to the same size as the roller cores. The rotation of the cores wear out the holes, causing play in the rollers. Replacement blocks are made of steel and the holes are slightly larger to accommodate nyliners (nylon bushings). This description is applicable to the No. 4, 215, 219, 15-21 and the 320 series. Chris: The next thing to consider is the form roller bearing blocks. The original blocks were made of brass and the holes were bored to the same size as the roller cores. The rotation of the cores wear out the holes, causing play in the rollers. Replacement blocks are made of steel and the holes are slightly larger to accommodate nyliners (nylon bushings).

This description is applicable to the No. 4, 215, 219, 15-21 and the 320 series.

]]> By: Paul Moxon, Moderator http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/#comment-1440 Paul Moxon, Moderator Fri, 13 Jul 2007 00:11:52 +0000 http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/#comment-1440 You will probably need to soak some parts in mineral spirits, just make sure you have adequate ventilation. After you remove the grime from bare metal parts like the side guide, paper guide adjustments, and the handles on the inking system, use Nevr-Dull to polish them. It's fast working and non-toxic. You can even get a mirror finish on the dead bars and lockup bar. You will probably need to soak some parts in mineral spirits, just make sure you have adequate ventilation.

After you remove the grime from bare metal parts like the side guide, paper guide adjustments, and the handles on the inking system, use Nevr-Dull to polish them. It’s fast working and non-toxic. You can even get a mirror finish on the dead bars and lockup bar.

]]> By: The Arm NYC http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/#comment-1439 The Arm NYC Thu, 12 Jul 2007 23:10:54 +0000 http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2007/07/11/cleanup/#comment-1439 Hey Chris, I use rubber gloves, WD-40 and regular green Scotchbrite pads on the unpainted metal surfaces. Wipe up the yuck with paper towels. Any hardware store metal polish should get the brass looking good. Automotive polish and some soft rags on the painted surfaces would be better than solvent and/or abrasives if you care to save the original paint job. It will take a lot of work, but there isn't so much surface are on that little #3. That having been said, I usually use orange hand cleaner for the sake of speed. Get us some before and after photos! Daniel Morris The Arm Letterpress Brooklyn, NY Hey Chris,
I use rubber gloves, WD-40 and regular green Scotchbrite pads on the unpainted metal surfaces. Wipe up the yuck with paper towels. Any hardware store metal polish should get the brass looking good.
Automotive polish and some soft rags on the painted surfaces would be better than solvent and/or abrasives if you care to save the original paint job. It will take a lot of work, but there isn’t so much surface are on that little #3. That having been said, I usually use orange hand cleaner for the sake of speed.
Get us some before and after photos!

Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

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