wanted to point you all to some pictures I took while removing, cleaning, and re-assembling the adjustable bed of my press.click here

I’ve been working on and off for several months cleaning a Vandercook 4 that I purchased this summer. The press had been unused and in an Iowa garage for 5 years.

My problem: the cylinder carriage moves easily down the track in trip mode, but gets very tight in print mode once the cylinder trip rack (hope I have this name correct, I’m using a diagram from a different Vandercook manual) is in its uppermost position. I can print, but I’m really pushing, not rolling, the carriage. Once the trip rack is down again, the carriage rolls back easily.

I’ve cleaned and oiled and re-cleaned and oiled everything that seems related in the area, but to no avail. The upper roller (across the cylinder trip rack from the cylinder trip gear) rolls freely before the trip rack lifts, but not after, but I don’t know if that’s a problem or not.

I’d appreciate any suggestions for things to try.

Thanks! Sara S. in Iowa

In two weeks I will finally take possession of my #4. It is being moved by a professional machinery mover, but I would like to give him some specific advice concerning the press itself. The move is only about 50 miles, however getting it into my space will be tricky as it’s going to a lower level. We are planning on removing the handle and the paper feed.  I know the movers can deal with the actual move I’m more interested in how they need to prep the press. Thanks, Lynda Campbell 

I’m sending off my SP20 form rollers to be re-covered, and want to strip off the old material first to save on shipping (they are quite heavy, and when I compare them to an extra core I have it’s clear that the old rubber compound makes up at least 50% of the weight). I’m apparently inept at doing this as I’ve had no luck and I’ve tried a ridiculous array of hand tools and can barely budge the stuff. Before I resort to messier and more violent means, does anyone have a simple method for this they’d like to share?Thanks,Duncan Dempster

I’ve been told by a lot of people that the Universal III washup unit is useless. But, I want to make mine work. The problem I have is that the scraper blade will run into the automatic inking cylinder and causes damage to the cylinder. Any suggestions. BTW I am looking for a return tray and a counter for the Univeral III too. Anyone got some leads?

Towson University in Towson , Maryland (outside Baltimore) is looking for a Vandercook Letterpress SP 15 or 20 for the university print studio. If anyone knows of such a press for sale near the Baltimore area, any information would be greatly appriciated.
Thank You.

Dear Presspersons, I have done some printing of wood and lino cuts and set so much type as would be barely noticeable under your fingernail. But in spite of this relative inexperience I have purchased a #315, sn 5562 to replace/compliment my #0. I have disassembled every moving part, cleaned and lubricated, re-packed the bearings, etc. In the attached photo ( see link below) I am preparing to perform an “in place” cylinder bearing lube job. The carriage was not on the press when I purchased it, so I have not had any reference for its proper installation and no manual. So, there are questions. Some of them have been answered by Paul and some I solved myself. I have shown the answers so far. They are all subject to comment and change. Please comment as you see fit. First, not knowing what to call some of the parts, I have put labels on the photo at Photobucket so you will know what I am talking about. 1. What is the function of the set screw to skid plate interface? If the carriage bearings are properly adjusted, running the setscrew up the ramp of the skid plate only causes the carriage to jam just before hitting the bumper. 2. What is the correct adjustment for the rollers? I have assumed that the rollers should ride against the upper rail surface, holding the cylinder bearer against the bed bearer at all times except with some small (perhaps .001-.002”) clearance. Paul’s answer: the clearance should be .003” 3. The cross bars have minimal clearance to the spring stop bodies. The paint has been scraped off the stops and bars due to years of interference between these two features. The stop bodies are 1.25” high. The undersides of the cross bars are only around 0.030” higher when equalized, but when I try to adjust the rollers as in #2, the clearance vanishes. Am I missing something, or do I need to modify the stops? The answer so far: the transverse lift bar can appear to be properly installed but have inadequate travel and lift if the carriage bearings do not position the carriage high enough when the bar is installed. This also affects trip cam position and clearance at the bumpers. 4. I have assumed that the clearance from from the cylinder face to the bare bed should be: 0.918 + 0.040 packing +0.050 galley = 1.008”. What I actually have is around 1.031 = 0.965 from bed to top of bed bearer + 0.066 from cylinder bearer to cylinder face. Is this press designed for something I am unaware of? Should the nominal packing be 0.063 or should I use a 0.073 plate on the bed to make up the difference? 5. On this machine the paper is fed into the lower left of the cylinder while the carriage is on the operator’s right and prints as the carriage moves left. If Fred Astaire knew the Vandy shuffle, maybe I need help from Ginger Rogers. It seems obvious that it has to be this way, but am I missing something? How common is this? 315, 317, 25?? 6. Does anyone have any manuals or drawings for this press or for the #317? And, yes, I used the ones posted on Paul’s page to time the cylinder. Very nice! 6 1/2. Do you have any warnings or general guidance as I continue with this project?

Sincerely,

Russ
Wood and Metal Craft
woodandmetalcraft.com

I am interested in finding a frisket tower for my Vandercook Universal I. I think a lot of people take these things off, but I like them. Does anyone know of one that might be available for sale?

Thanks,
Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY

Thanks to all who have advised on my previous  thread.

I’d like to go back to my original problem, as it still persists despite new rollers, and that is/was uneven inking over the bed of the press, lengthwise. I had a form set up with two plates, one close to the grippers, and the other about 8.5 inches  away from the grippers. The front part printed fine, while the back was light, despite raising the impression on the packing and even putting a bit of tape under the plate. I was printing red ink, about .5” square. This is still happening, despite new rollers. I was reluctant to add ink for fear of overinking. I’m thinking of reprinting, doing it as 4 runs instead of two (two colors involved in the whole print job) putting all plate close to the grippers. Any other ideas? Thanks.

After just a few months here in the Pacific Nortwest, my previously unrusty SP-15 is beginning to show slight signs of rust on the cylinder rack teeth. In looking in the archives, I noted that Evapo-Rust has been recommended for rust removal. Should I look into getting some type of machine to reduce humidity in the press room? Will excessive humidity cause eventual damage to the rollers? The press is in the house, not the garage, but still dampness is always an issue here. Thanks very much for any advice.