Archive for April 2008

Feedboard for 219 Old Style - Posted April 30, 2008

I’m missing a feedboard and metal lip for my 219 OS. Does anyone have a replacement or has anyone rigged a workable system without an original piece? Any help would be much appreciated.

Jordan


Serial number location on early models - Posted April 29, 2008

This post is in response to a query on Letpress:
Vandercook first issued serial numbers on presses in 1914. Until about 1925 they were located directly on the press bed at the right end midway between the lock up pins. It may be hidden by a removable bed plate and/or rust and oxided ink.
This number appears on a 1932 Single Truss No. 1 owned by John Horn.


I, too, am having roller problems on my SP-15 - Posted

Rather suddenly my rollers decided to crap out by not inking the form evenly. I am using photopolymer plates.


The Problem

Form is not being inked evenly. Ink is heaviest at the beginning of the form (the area the form rollers hit first). Based on the image above, it appears that the rollers are not freely rolling across the top of the form, rather pushing/sliding the ink across. The 2nd example is the worst case scenario – many of the bad impressions made the form look as if it were only half inked.

Observations

First, I’ve tried adjusting the roller height and the amount of ink in addition to cleaning all moving parts (nyliners, etc.) – all to no avail. I tried rubber and oil based inks. I even moved the form around on the bed. All with the same result. However, please note that I haven’t tried cleaning the crescent or worm.

I have observed the following behaviors:

[1] The oscillating roller does not appear to move/roll during inking of the smaller form. With the larger form, it rolls inconsistently – it rolls over some areas and slides across others.

[2] I get better results when the oscillating roller is in the up position (ie. not touching the form rollers).

[3] Even with the oscillating roller up, the problem seems to persist with the front form roller.

[4] I get best results when using only the back form roller (ie. without the oscillating roller or the front form roller in use).

On Another Note
Sort of on the same topic but an entirely different issue, when things are working okay, my rollers are not able to ink the entire bed. It does fine on the first 7″-9″ but the form rollers cannot make contact with the form on the rest of the bed. Does this mean my bed is uneven? If so, how do I fix this?


Oiling The Motor – A Necessary Task? - Posted April 27, 2008

Keith Cross phoned me this morning asking what he should do about oiling the motors on the two Mass Art shop Vandercooks. One has an oil cup (or two?) with spring cap(s); the other, two cap bolts on top of the gear box similar to my late model SP15. What did I do about oiling the motor on my press he wondered.
I had to say that I had never in the 16 years I’ve owned my SP15, ever concerned myself with oiling the motor, or rather, the gearbox. The motor armature turns on sealed bearings does it not?
The SP15 Manual in all its brevity, states: “follow motor manufacturers instructions for lubrication of the motor.” The make and model of the motor are not in plain view. There is no addendum in the manual, nor instructions in any of my paperwork. All other lube points on the press are mentioned under the LUBRICATION heading as well as the schematic and parts diagrams.
My curiosity piqued, i spun the forward most cap bolt off my gearbox and shown a light down in. I could see the box was essentially dry, with the tan patina on steel parts of 44 year old oxidized lubricant.
So, do I top my gearbox up with S.A.E. #20?
Or is there some intermediary level to come up to, e.g. as in an automotive differential, to avoid losing mechanical drive energy to the resistance imposed by fully immersing ring and pinion in a heavy oil bath?
And is this even necessary? It’s run fine for years.

mjb / interrobangletterpress.com


Buying a Vandercook - Posted April 24, 2008

Dear all, apologies if my first post is somewhat ‘how long is a piece of string’.

I am looking to buy a Vandercook (in terms of model I am guided by what becomes available but very possibly a 4), but my interest is printing rather than engineering, whilst I appreciate some maintaince and running repairs will be essential, I’d be very interested in any pointers of what to look out for when assessing a press. I realise rollers may need replacing, rust may need removing etc, but I’m keen to know what things you would check/look out for when looking at a press, particularly problematic missing parts, signs of untreatable wear and tear, generally any major issues to be aware of.

Cheeky extra question: while not ideal, would any of you consider buying a press unseen, via ebay for example, any anecdotes or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for any help you can offer, Alistair


Universal III forward / reverse switches - Posted April 21, 2008

Does anyone have a working forward / backward switches for a Universal III they would be willing to sell?
I also need the microswitch that is on the lower backside of the press closest to the feedboard, but this doesn’t seem quite as critical.
Any help would be appreciated.

Ray Nichols / Lead Graffiti


Uni I cylinder adjustment - Posted

Hi, folks. I am writing about a damaged Uni I that I have been working on intermittently over the past 10 months. When the press was shipped to me, it was struck and dragged along the right-hand side of the carrriage. Obviously I’ve learned my lesson where crating is concerned but I cannot for the life of me get the cylinder balanced. Recently I had faked, so to speak, an even impresssion by dramatically altering the bearing settings but the press felt awful to print on and I imagine I was creating more problems for my self down the road. At present, I have removed all bearings, eccentrics, etc. and the cylinder is tilted high on the right-hand side and low on the left-hand side. My frame of reference is the smooth inner rail running closest to the press bed. In trip, the left-hand side is making contact with this rail. On my other presses, the proper distance seems to be roughly 1/8″ distance from cylinder to rail when in trip and drops down to make contact when in print. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
all best,
Patrick Masterson


SP15 oscillator problem - Posted April 19, 2008

I’m having a problem with my steel roller (the large one that oscillates) binding against the inner form roller when the carriage returns. After returning one or two inches it binds regardless of location, i.e.: If I lift and lower the oscillating roll, it still binds at any point on the return trip. One side of the oscillating steel roll (the side opposite the operator) rises higher than the operator side (the rectangular bar at the end of the roll rises in its slot) and the carriage stops. Any suggestions on how I might resolve this problem? As a work around I’m lifting the oscillating roll each time on the return trip. Sorry I don’t have the terminology correct. Thank you.


11×25 1/2 Trip Action Vandercook Proof Press - Posted

This is my first post. I went through the pictures on the Vandercook web site and the proof press we have looks like the 11×25 1/2 Trip Action Vandercook Proof Press. I am a 4th generation printer in Cincinnati OH. Would anyone venture a guess at the value of this press.
Thanks for your answer,
Mac McBreen


Changing Tympan Paper - Posted April 11, 2008

Can anyone give me some tips or point me towards a good resource for learning how to change the tympan paper on the roller of the good ole’ No. 4?  It’s worn down quite a bit, and it also needs a bit less packing as the impression I’m getting is too deep.  Thanks!


Sticky Grippers - Posted April 9, 2008

I have a problem with sticky grippers on my SP-15. Everything was working fine, then they became stiffer and stiffer until they didn’t want to open at all. As far as I can tell the foot pedal assembly is fine. I’ve taken apart the gripper assembly, cleaned and lubricated it. While it seems to work now, it doesn’t work as smoothly as it should. I’ve been using AGS powdered white lubricant in lieu of graphite. Are there any other lubricants I should use? Or any other reasons why this is happening? Thanks so much!


SP-15 squeak problem - Posted

My SP-15, now in full use for several months, has a squeak in the area of the operator’s side of the carriage which I can’t seem to locate precisely or get rid of. The noise occurs mid-way in travel down the bed, and happens only when on print, not on trip. I routinely oil all the proper points, and have also tried oiling the area where the crank handle meets the carriage, but nothing has helped. I don’t really mind the sound that much, but am concerned it might be indicative of a more serious problem. In all other respects, however, the press works well. Any ideas or comments much appreciated, thanks!


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