Gearbox did in fact have oil after popping the side inspection plug.

updated photo thread posted here

This was a valuable exercise. I hope everyone can learn from it.

mjb

see notated image here

None of these plugs had ever been loosened by the PO.

mjb

I want to note, that for older models such as the No. 4 checking the oil level needs to be much more routine. At the gear box there are two external oil cups each with a spring-hinged lid. A label on the lower cup reads �Oil Level.� Peer into this cup while adding oil to the upper one. The Oil will work through down to the lower cup.

“Oil is cheaper than iron.” It used to be anyway.

SO, am I safe using the Mobil 90 weight gear oil I put in my differential? It’s formulated for much more extreme duty than the SP15 is likely to subject it to. I’ve been lubing the C&P with it for many years.

mjb

“Lubrication is extremely important for satisfactory operation. Proper oil level must be maintained in the gear case at all times. The correct level is indicated by the red plug. (note–this tag is off a big gear motor for a Univ III, so there may not be a red plug on like the SP-15 gear motors, but possibly a oil level plug–I should go look, but—-) Frequent inspections of the unit not running, (preferably when warm), should be made by removing this plug to see that the level is being maintained. If low, (without replacing the oil level plug) add lubricant through one of the upper openings until it comes out the oil level hole. Replace oil level plug securely. (some units may have a “breather” plug and that’s to allow air to escape as well as too much oil)

Lubricant should be drained and the gearcase refilled after the first 250 hours of operation; then every 1500 hours or six months thereafter, whichever happens first.”

There’s more on the label, but you should really be feeling bad about now about the neglect you all have been giving your gear motors. It further states in effect NOT to top off a gear case because warm oil has to have room to expand into, otherwise it could result in damage to the seals. It further states that if the motor has been in any other position than normal that oil may have leaked out and “insufficient lubricant will damage gears and bearings in very short time.”

I chose at random one of the oils listed on the label: Mobil Extra Hecla, and the link to this oil is:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENINDMOMobil_Cylinder_Oils.asp and it is rated for up to 300 rpm.

Another listed oil is Shell Spirax Heavy Duty and the link is:

http://www.islandoilsupply.com/shell/gearoils.htm#SPIRAX

And in looking in the Grainger catalog, they list several gear oils by Mobil. I would think those listed under Industrial Gear Oils would be satisfactory–better than thin air, sawdust, or 3-in-one oil. Ignorance is bliss, but not when it comes to oiling equipment. Reliance also noted that sealed bearings were good for 5 years without attention–good one. We do not have replacement gear motors for the SP-15, -20, etc. Treat these units like they are made out of gold–have a competent motor shop rebuild if necessary, and be prepared to spend in the neighborhood of $500 or more if you attempt to find a new replacement gear motor that even comes close to the gear ratios Vandercook had Reliance make these to–not off the shelf items to start with. The Vandercook dripless oil we sell is original Vandercook stock (though on the blueprints it is listed as a “way” oil, and not a gear oil) and I use it for things like this without problem. Dripless oil is sticky–meant to be on slow moving sliding parts, like machine ways.

Fritz

Well that must have been kind of a frustratingly fruitless correspondence. There is no tag on my motor indicating any recommendations.

I’ve posted a few photos here.

Still waiting for Fritz and Paul to weigh in on this. Fritz, maybe you can ship a bottle of dripless #20 with the Bulmer if that’s the stuff?

“Recently I decided to change the oil in my vandercook universal I motor (apropos of nothing other than it hasn’t been done in 42 years).

Part of this was inspired by a hang tag next to the motor with a list of recommended lubricants. part of the tag reads: “CAUTION: All of the lubricants listed above contain extreme pressure additives. UNDER NO CONDITIONS should unapproved substitutes be used as a lubricant with an
unsuitable additive may cause serious trouble. For information on additional approved lubricants, write factory.”

All of these lubricants are no longer made, so I called Reliance and asked them what modern oil to use. They referred me to their archives dept. who informed me that they couldn’t find a motor with my serial number. Here’s the entirety of their response via e-mail: ” I have looked again, are there any letters in front of the numbers? I’m not having any luck locating documentation. We have also checked
underground storage.”

So, long story short - what oils do people use in their reliance AC motors. The best answer i could get out of reliance - their new AC motors take Chevron SRI#2. This is a 100w oil, which seems about right, but in the archives i found a post where someone said to use SAE20 in the motor as well as the bearings, rails, etc.

any advice?

alex (i have also checked underground storage) brooks
press eight seventeen
lexington, ky”

I’m hesitant to do any disassembly at this point to check seals. I think I’ll source out some #20 lube and roll the dice.

Everything sounds just as it has for as long as I’ve been running the press. Belt and pulley are in fine condition. No slippage.

mjb

Daniel Morris
The Arm Letterpress
Brooklyn, NY