Today I created a new gallery page for images of the prints received for the 2009 Vandercook Print Bundle. First at bat: Casey McGarr!

Here’s an idea for a hand-activated gripper lever to aid sheet feeding on the No. 3 Vandercook. In the drawing at left, a handle attached to the gripper trip lever is pulled toward the operator, thus moving the push rod against the trip bar which forces the gripper stems to rise.

A notable “feature” of the No. 3 (after hand-cranked ink distribution) is its automatic cylinder grippers and the absence of a foot pedal. (Similarly equipped models are the 325A and the 317.) Opening the grippers at the feed board requires rolling the carriage forward. Paper is then placed in position (beyond the feed board lip) and the grippers are closed just before the carriage returns to the feed board. This maneuver is time consuming, makes registration difficult and can damage some papers in the process.

There are two No. 3s at a printmaking studio I’ve been invited to teach next summer, so I hope I can make a modification by then. The question is: should the gripper trip lever (MS-125) be replaced with a longer single steel bar extending up and then at a right angle (A) or should a separate assembly be attached between the first and second screws of the existing lever (B)?

If any No. 3 operators have a successful workaround for this “feature” or a better, simpler method than I’ve described, please share.

The Book Arts Program at the J. Willard Marriott Library, The University of Utah has a Vandercook 15-21 (shown with the top frame assembly removed) that is experiencing difficulties. Within minutes of application, a majority of the ink added migrates to the non-operator side (highlighted in the image) of the ink distributor assembly and form rollers

Any suggestions for correction are much appreciated.

This photo was sent to me by Amanda Stevenson, Curator at the Museum of Printing History in Houston, Texas who asked me to identify the press in the background. I recognized it as a Claybourn hand proof press made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin circa 1926. There should be a nameplate on the operator’s side and the name “Claybourne” cast into the base. Coincidentially, I have been working on an update on the Claybourn page of this website. Thanks to Eric Holub for ending me his splendid Claybourn catalog. From these catalog images one can see that the Claybourn resemble Hacker presses and appear to be as solidly constructed, and like other contemporary Vandercook competitors, they have reciprocating beds and stationary carriages.

Note the green rollers. Amanda says their oozing, so they must be made of polyurethane. Does anyone have a effective non-toxic cleanup solution?

Also, can anyone identify the wooden machine in the foreground?

Hello! I’m new to the wild world of Vandercook ownership…and am hesitant to take apart the cylinder without first getting advice. Here are the details:

(1) I bought the press a little over a month ago, and noticed that the carriage was getting hung up (as if it had to scale a small hill) about 5 inches out from the feedboard. The press’s owner was not a trained printer, and had definitely neglected to oil the press in the 5-10 years she’d owned it.

(2) Upon loading the press into the moving van, we dropped it. It fell back to a 45 degree angle on the back side–after which we noticed that the carriage was binding at that point–about 5 inches away from the feedboard. However, the fall didn’t impact the bed or carriage, only the lower portion of the cabinet.
I’ve posted photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/maydaystudio/VandercookTripArm

The press is now installed in my shop, and I’d like to start cleaning, oiling, and making repairs. My question for you: should I go ahead and take off the carriage plates to investigate the problem? I am fairly mechanically competent, and have a manual with diagrams. Or is this something I should hire a repair person for?

Thanks for your help!

Kelly
May Day Studio

A couple of months back, I took off the gear racks, one side at a time and cleaned off 40 years of ink, grime and paper dust. All are back on in exactly the same position and tightened down with hex head screws. Nothing was dis-assembled from the roller carriage. Now, when the carriage in on impression and not tripped off impression, (the other lever), there is an space of 1/8″ between impression cylinder and type-high. Anyone have any ideas what may be wrong? This press is in a college setting and has been used since I worked on it.

I have been perusing the posts related to #4 form roller problems, specifically in regards to the clutch plate. I finally got a good handle on the source of all the racket that my press has been making for the last few months by adjusting the roller assembly and shimming the clutch plate. The issue that I am really curious about and haven’t seen any information about the wear on the gear track where the form roller gears rest. In all the pictures that have been posted of the clutch plate the gears below look like they have been worn down, just like mine. I have heard that a worn down gear track is curtains for a press…is that true?? Also, is this the reason that my press jumps some times when i begin to move the carriage down the track? Any information regarding this matter is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Karen

Invitation Closed–goal reached– wait list established. This is the official invitation to participate in the Vandercook Centenary Print Bundle, a limited edition exchange of letterpress prints celebrating the first one hundred years of Vandercook proof presses (1909-2009). The goal is to exchange one hundred prints between one hundred Vandercook operators.

Please pledge your commitment to this project by September 1, 2008.
Prints must be received by August 16, 2009.

Does anyone know where to find galley magnets? Here are a couple of photographs of one magnet that I have, which is very handy, and I’d like to get my hands on some more of these.

Hello all,

I have a No. 4 which the seller informed me has a 3 phase motor, I only have access to single phase power. I would be grateful to know of anyones experience of such matters. Did you change the motor or get a converter? If you used a converter it would be great to know what sort of rating I require, as they vary a lot in price. If you changed the motor, what sort of power do I need? I am in the UK (different power to you guys in the US).

Thank you for any advice, Alistair