I have had a continuous problem with the Vandercook 215 form rollers dropping down too low due to the hex bolts working themselves loose. We tighten these by hand because with a wrench, they get too tight and the rollers won’t turn freely. Is this an indication that there is something wrong with the bearing blocks? We have nyliners in place, too. For years I have just accepted this as press aging, something to be watched from time to time, but I’m hoping there might just be a cure. Any help appreciated. I have photos if that would be helpful.

hello everyone,

i have a 215 ready to print – soon as i figure out how to adjust the height of these rollers. i don’t have a manual, any other press i’d used have knobs at the ends of the rollers but this model doesn’t have anything so obvious. looks like maybe a hex key at each end of the rubber rollers? anyone know?

thank you,

sallie

I have had some inking issues today. Some passes were ok, while in other passes, inking of the type on the form was uneven. I noticed that the back ink roller, the one that hits the drum, was having trouble with its gear/clutch not aligning properly on most passes (see photo). The front roller gears aligned just fine. I tried several fixes, including taking the collar off and putting it back, making sure that the allen screws were in the right place and the collar at the correct position. This did not fix the problem. I even switched the rollers and the problem still occurs with the back roller. Finally, I removed the washer that had been attached to the brass plate to keep the gear and clutch from clattering. The washer on the forward roller had fallen off, so this was the only difference I could see between the front and back rollers that might cause the back one to not catch properly. Didn’t help. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

The motor on my 215 just started stalling in the middle of today’s run. I had switched off the motor during a pause in printing, and when I switched it back on again, it hummed but did not move. I was able to get it moving again by physically moving the belt from the motor pulley to the chain drive. Then the motor ran as normal. When it’s switched off, it takes a few seconds to stop turning, and the final turns end with a click/clack/snap sound. The snap also occurs when I get the motor fully moving again, like there is a clutch allowing movement that has to click into place. When switched off and then back on again, it sometimes appears as if the motor is trying to turn backward, but again, if I physically move the belt the right way, it will catch and then start turning on its own. It’s a Century Single Phase 1750 rpm motor that is kept regularly oiled, at least with the two visible oil cups. I have read that single phase motors can sometimes have a capacitor go out, which causes them to try to run backwards at startup. If this is my problem is it fixable? Thanks for any help.

During my recent move to Arkansas, apparently the switch on my Vandy 215 was pushed in from the frame, separating it from the metal housing bracket that holds it in place. Nothing is actually broken or chipped, but just separated. It looks like the housing is meant to be crimped to clamp onto the plastic of the switch to hold it (see photos), but my attempts to try this (I inserted a flat screwdriver on top of that “t” shape and turned it to push the t section toward the switch wall) have not been successful. Any advice? Will I have to replace the switch? Thanks.

A few weeks back, I wrote about a worm gear with a blunted point that was causing my oscillating roller to stop during it’s run back and forth. I tried filing the point down myself, and while I was able to get it smooth, I was not able to make a nice, sharp point. Last week I took the worm gear with the broken point to a local machinist who ground down the point for me, making it a nice, sharp point again, although much shorter than the other points. He thought it wouldn’t work because of that shortness (and didn’t charge me a cent), but it does work, I’m very happy to report. Another Christmas Miracle! Happy Holidays to all!

The oscillating roller is hanging up at one point in its travels. Fritz wrote that this is probably due to damage somewhere on the worm gear, the center shaft of the oscillating roller. He was right; one of the points on the worm gear was chipped, and that is where the crescent rider is hanging up. I was able to get back up and running temporarily by backing off on the set screw that holds the crescent in place, but yesterday, the roller refused to get around that bad spot. I was able to file the worm gear down a bit, but Fritz is right; the gear is hardened steel and does not go gently under the file. My question is: does this mean I have to get a new worm gear? Does a new one exist?? Can I try filing some more? Would a machinist be able to hone that point for me? Thanks.

Comments are applicable to the No.4

Need as much specific information on the Vandercook #215 form roller mechanism function. The one I’m trying to troubleshoot is at the Atlanta Printmakers Studio. The roller mechanism that propels the rollers as it traverses the press bed will not disengage when it returns to the feedboard, and as a result the rear form roller grabs when it contacts the ink drum. Can someone provide input that will help us to solve the problem.

Norman J. Wagner
Professor Emeritus
Atlanta College of Art

Donald Kerr at University of Otago [New Zeeland], informed me of his institution’s Vandercook made by Pre Press Ltd. of London. His photos show a carriage nameplate stating that it is a No.4. However, the cabinet and feed board styling (and presumedly the inking system were it present) is that of a 215. Interested readers may recall my February 04 entry English-made Hybrid concerning another Pre Press-made Vandercook, which had a No.4 cabinet but a 215 feed board, and where the model name was left blank on the carriage name plate.