Comments for Vanderblog

Comment on frozen bearings & paper gripper, SP-15 by Eric Holub

Eric Holub — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:55:08 +0000

I would tap the bottom of the grippers with a pin punch (the largest that will fit) and hammer.
No point using Evapo-Rust if rust isn’t there, but penetrating oil is needed. Slightly better than Liquid Wrench is Kroil from Kano Labs. Acetone mixed 50-50 with automatic taransmisson fluid is supposed to be the best, but one person I suggested that to could not get the two to mix properly.
Such penetrating oils will be needed on the frozen bearings too, but disassembly will be needed in any case. All the de-rusted bearing surfaces will need to be smoothed with scrapers, synthetic steel wool, fine grit abrasive, crocus cloth, etc.

Comment on SP15 ink drum gear by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:20:06 +0000

X-21724 is the part number for the pulley (plasticky gear). NA Graphics is where you get it: http://www.nagraph.com/

Send me the serial numbers, location and owner name and I’ll add them to the census. http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/census/

Comment on A no: 219 Proof Press. Serial #: 11476 by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:24:14 +0000

He may be able to clean the grime and rust, but I suspect that there is severe erosion of the rails, bearings, cylinder and bed. Certainly it will need a new motor. Some parts need to be repaired (crank handle) and missing parts manufactured. A substantial investment of time and money. Even then quality work (if that’s your thing) may not be possible. But see what an $8000 grant and a world class machine shop can do: http://vandercookpress.info/vanderblog/2008/01/232p-conversion/

Comment on A no: 219 Proof Press. Serial #: 11476 by Vilkas

Vilkas — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 04:16:37 +0000

I am probably crazy as a loon but in the pictures it appears to me with a couple truck loads of elbow grease… someone that had the patience could revive it. I’ve seen people bring worse back to life.

Comment on A no: 219 Proof Press. Serial #: 11476 by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 04:16:20 +0000

Depending on the extent of the rust, there’s may be $200-300 worth of parts: doors with lettering, the roller frame (shown) gripper bar, side guide, lockup bar (not shown).

Comment on A no: 219 Proof Press. Serial #: 11476 by billytheaufan

billytheaufan — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 03:54:22 +0000

Im currently in Louisiana. Do you think i could make any money on it? And yes au means Auburn Uni.. Im a football fan.

Comment on A no: 219 Proof Press. Serial #: 11476 by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 03:45:46 +0000

Yikes! I’ve seen some rough, rough presses, but wow. As a whole it’s not usable, however, I do spy a few parts that should be salvaged.

I’m assuming that “aufan” means Auburn University. Are you (and it) in Alabama? I’m in Mobile.

Comment on 219 twin ink drums by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:59:16 +0000

Here’s a detail from parts sheet No. 2. The idler cam appears to be different than later worm gears, but I don’t see why one wouldn’t work. The diameter of the rubber would be more important.

Comment on 219 twin ink drums by robertwoods

robertwoods — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 14:36:56 +0000

Thank you.

I didn’t realize that the missing ductor roller had a worm gear for oscillation.

Comment on 219 twin ink drums by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 14:18:36 +0000

I’ve alerted a few 219 OS owners who may be able to comment. Meanwhile, I imagine that the block block protruding through the frame at B could be unthreaded.

You may be able to locate a ductor for a later model press and if it doesn’t fit have a new shaft fabricated and install the older worm gear. Then of course have the rubber recovered.

Comment on SP-15 motor oil level by Paul Moxon, Moderator

Paul Moxon, Moderator — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 14:03:27 +0000

No recommendation is stated in the SP15 manual, but since has a 1/12 HP Motor SAE 20 wt. should suffice. Depending on the make of the motor (there were at least three) you may fine a lower plug that serves to indicate the oil level. Slowly unscrew, but do not remove, to see it any oil seeps out. I have a manual for an early No. 4 that recommends 40 wt. for the speed reducer, and 20 wt for plain bearing motors, while a later manual says to add 20 wt. This question has inspired me to contact Reliance and Bodine two of the companies that built motors for Vandercook to get original specs. Perhaps I can get a copy of a motor manual and post it as a PDF. In any event I will add a table listing model, motor hp and oil recommendations in the near future. All readers are welcome to comment or contact me with their motor specs (HP, manufacturer + model name and serial number).

Comment on Sunday in the Park with Vandercooks by Ron Bachman

Ron Bachman — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 19:46:08 +0000

In the Northwestern University graduating class of 1888, he was listed as Robert. So between the census of 1880 and 1888, he seems to have decided to use the more conventional given name of Robert.