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I have found that the adjustment posts for the form rollers on our SP15 go out of adjustment rather easily of late. The locking screw is tight, but not tight enough to stop the post from turning. Do I simply remove the bearing block, remove the locking screw, and ‘gently’ tap the side of the bearing block to slightly close the gap, or is there a better way to tighten it?
John
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I have several Vandercook maintenance classes scheduled through June. Details and locations on the workshops page.
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Howdy,
I recently acquired a Reprex #1 press that we are trying to get in running shape. I’m searching for a few Reprex one parts: Lock up bar or deadline bar, the larger trip handle (like a lollipop)that is on the back side of the press and the paper side guide that goes on the feed bar. Does anyone have any good photos of their Reprex one they can share? I’m trying to see what the paper grippers look like–there seem to have been two of them and are missing.
Thanks,
Cindy
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Hi All,
I am new to the group as until now my focus has been on Golding platen presses. I have now “seen the light” and am adding a Potter proof press No. 3 to my shop. At the moment I just have the inking mechanism and its under restoration, but, soon the massive cast iron press itself will find its way down from John Barretts shop into my tiny garage and I will add it to the census. I wonder if any in the group have a set of feed board brackets they would sell or trade for something nice of equal value such as wood type, etc. I would be interesting in knowing about any other spare parts one might have as well. If you have a set you are not interested in selling but would allow me to borrow or view them that would also be helpful as it would be so much easier to create new ones by seeing the originals.
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I just got a lockup bar. It is the early style, but I’m missing two pieces the internal pin that goes from the cam to the spring and the pin that aligns the sliding part of the bar. That part is broken. I’m looking for some dimensions and/or some picture of each of those parts.
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Lorenzo Pellegrinelli, of Niemand Private Press in Milan, sent a link to this video of a No.3 old style Vandercook being offloaded from a truck by crane. This is the same press (sn: 7870) that was up for auction in The Netherlands in September. The feed board does not appear to exist.
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Is it possible to remove the reel rod on the No. 4 ?
I want to get in there real good with a brush, it’s nasty in there.
I found two hex nuts and tried both ways but couldn’t get it out.
I also unscrewed the ratchet but I can’t see how the reel rod can come off.
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I was wondering if there’s any safe way to limit the amount the vibrator oscillates on the Vandercook 4?
It’s for a business card logo about an inch wide…
Thank you.
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Access will be restored soon. Thanks for advice and assistance from Scott Fisk, Brian Goodman and Enrique Woolvolk.
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I’ve found out that the two bumper springs on my Universal I are broken. New ones ordered from NAGraphics arrived last week. Question now: how do I get the remaining bits of spring out and get the new springs in? Is there a trick or a magical solution/answer?
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Hello all,
Im hoping I can get some help on here to help me classify a model of a Vandercook.
It has automatic inking, but no grippers/floor pedal.
The max. form size is approx. 16.5 x 24 inches.
Thank you for any help you could give!
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Maybe five years ago we bought our Vandercook SP-15 off eBay. When it got here the one major problem was that the ink drum was quite scratched from the automatic cleaning bar that scraped the ink off it. Lately we’ve been having trouble printing evenly with it and started to deduce that it might be a combination of the colder weather (and colder ink) and the ink drum dropping ink on rather erratically as the press ran.
We’ve wanted to get it milled for years and finally got around to doing it this week.
I’m not sure what we expected, but we gasped when they brought it out. There is nothing like having the right tool for the right job.
Our studio is a 2,200 square foot space in an industrial park and as it turns out there is a grinding service just down the street called J&A Grinding that we’ve been using to sharpen our cutter blades since we moved in. We asked them if they could mill the surface of our drum smooth and they said, “No problem.”
It cost us $150 as it took at least 7 or 8 passes to get all but one small area that just seemed dangerously deep, but very, very small. I wish I had taken a photo of it before the milling to show you how much damage there was, but above is one of the finished job.
Honestly, we aren’t going to use the auto-cleaning any more. We also might just take all of the other metal rollers and let them take one pass across them all and just have it like new again.
I also think we’ll start adding ink on the rubber rollers instead of hitting the metal ones with an ink knife.