Hello!
I just purchased my first Vandercook (4T) and all seems well except the front rider roller is very loud, and the side away from the operator doesn’t ink evenly at all. I can’t figure out from the manual if these rider rollers should have Nyliners on them?
Attached a video to show the sound and inking. Thank you!
Great! But don’t wait too long to deal with the clutch pins and plate.
Paul, I am happy to report that the Vaseline did the trick! I am guessing I will need to disassemble it eventually (as the ink on the rider still is slow to become even, though the press itself is inking my prints beautifully!), so I really appreciate the step-by-step instructions.
Thanks again!
The tie rods were made from cold-drawn steel, as CDS noted in the drawings. Surprising, isn’t it, that the rods wear and not the wood bushings? That’s how durable lignum vitae is. It’s no wonder it was widely used in machinery back in the day. However, after decades, they can slip inward and crack, usually at the outside diameter. I have been able to extract many bushings intact, which I’ve presented to the customer as a souvenir.
i just did the very same today with a set of the inking system i got with a poor looking lathe. the rods are totally worn out and i will make new ones. wondering what kind of rod steel to use? of course i had to remove all 4 taper pins. surprisingly the steel rods are worn and the wood bushing is still round and centered and holds the tolerance.
Before disassembly the top frame, try appyling a dab of Vaseline with a stip of cardstock to the tie rod between the rider and the handle.
To disassemble the the frame:
The original taper pins can be filed if not too malformed. New #1 one inch taper pins may be found in a hardware store but the small end will protrude and need to be ground down after install. Hollow roll pins can be substituted if the pathway is no longer aligned.
Paul — thank you so much for this detailed response!
I cleaned and doubled checked the form roller height and the squeaking is still happening. I do hear a slight jingle inside of the front rider roller, so perhaps part of the bushing is rattling around inside.
I guess the next step will be taking apart that assembly. Is it a matter of pounding out the pins to be able to slide the bar out? Do the pins typically hold their shape or will I likely need to buy / create new ones to put it back together?
And you were spot on about the chatter. My pins are definitely flattened, so I will be looking into getting some new ones!
Thank you again!
Congratulations on acquiring your press. The No. 4 has framed form rollers, so the roller height must be adjusted in small increments front and back on each side. Keeping the gap between the bearing bars and the frame handles even. Cleaning the assembly will make a difference. The rubber form roller diameter should be 2.5”.
The riders have bushings on each end. Original F-761 bushings are made of wood (lignum vitae). Replacements are made of Delrin and are available from NA Graphics. Bushings can slip inward into the hollow of the rider, and the inside diameter can also be worn.
The end of the tie rod on which the rider and bushings turn could be bent, and the outside diameter where the bushing turns can also be worn. New MR-113 tie rods can be made by a machinist, who would turn the rod stock and drill and ream to fit the handles.
I also hear clicking of the MR-108 clutch block and the MR-111 gear which should not be in contact when the carriage is at the feed board. This is caused by worn MR-110 clutch pins or a worn MB-104 clutch plate. New clutch pins are available from NA Graphics. A clutch plate can be brazed by a local machinist or exchanged for one through me.
Please send me your serial number, name and location for the census.