I might? like-should I? to take out/swing out the cylinder to clean the inside faces of the carriage/remove rust etc, it is secured by a bolt each side through carriage side into a block the other side of it on the inner face of the carriage, and the only thing left to do apparently is take out the rod that engages with the grippers going through the centre of the cylinder-presumably the only way is to release the pivoting mechanism on the off side by taking out the pins that hold it in the brackets/rods/supports to withdraw the rod-any other possibilities, cos the pins are really really solid. Don’t really want to drill them out.
Any corroboration /ideas are most welcome and thank you.
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Paul
CP90 has an oily smell but it is nothing like WD40, which has a distinctive odor. I use all kinds of stuff around here (some of if very naughty) but my wife always knows when I use WD40! I think you can easily use CP90 directly in front of an administrator (or behind!), hey, it’s a lubricant and rust inhibitor. You are saving them money in down the road repairs or replacement!
Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
Basil thanks for advice -are you in Uk-just your name has been passed to me independently by Sue at Bournemouth as a V press engineer-MSDS WD 40 say hydrotreated heavy napthenic oil plus proprietary additive-basically I believe it is just something like 3 in 1 oil plus white spirit, it dries out v quickly so would not use for long term like Gerald says….might try something called Dinitrol 485 to protect the shiny parts to save painting them..got a nice long flexible fibre(not wire) revolving brush fitted to drill is excellent at cleaning out teeth/gearing….
On other lists it has been stated that WD-40 contains silicone; it would seem that other constituents fade but the silicone persists and interferes with any lubricant used later. True or not?
WD-40 seems to be the ducktape-equivalent solution for lubrication. Not great, but easy, and a quick fix with no thought to the long term.
I use WD-40 mostly as a one-step cleaner. School’s don’t object to it, so it’s always on hand in the studios I visit. For seized parts I use Kroil, an industrial penetrating oil, though it has an unpleasant odor. So I wait until any administrator, who might stop by in during a session, to quit the building. I’ll try CP90 sounds like a good product. Thanks.
Paul
Just a note here. I have pretty much given up on WD40 for presses. Its primary function is water displacement. Great for electrical switches and the like, useless for rust and lubrication. A far better press (and auto) product is Carwell’s CP90, which is both a rust inhibitor and lubricant. Sold by those good folks who offer Evaporust.
Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
For light rust on the cylinder gears, I would try WD-40 and a wire brush, or a Dremmel and a vacuum cleaner with hose.
I’d avoid using use Naval Jelly/Evaporust unless the rust is extensive. It’s generally too messy.
The hinge referred to is the cylinder eccentric which shifts it between print and trip modes.
The push rod is not difficult to remove, just a matter of removing two screws on the supporting gripper lever. Usually, it’s sufficient to clean it in place, once the gripper bar is removed.
Very much appreciate both your and Paul’s comments—the carriage side frames are held in parallel and square by two cross struts but doing too much could disturb the balance, although the cylinder is hinged itself on a bar secured to each side of the carriage. advice re cleaning much appreciated, not sure what UK equivalent of Evaporust-probably our “naval jelly” is Jenolite(phosphoric acid rust oxidiser), will try to attatch either here or in a new post(sorry , photos is nearly identical to Marianne’s below,Paul hope it does not confuse the vanderblog, slowly getting used to this dashboard?) photo of rod that goes through cylinder to grippers and its supporting pivot mechanisms, probably not worth the effort or removing, just trying to do a thorough job as possible. Also had to retime/relocate the cylinder on its gearing too, to learn where the paper starts on impression and finishes, removed bumpers and feedboard and just wound it off the racking, then ran it forward to see if it was in the right place, by trial and error adjusting by counting teeth clockwise/counterclockwise-so the other post was most useful too.Best wishes.
Paul, I would totally agree with you. Removing the side frames would mean virtually dismantling the whole carriage. May I suggest he removes the two guards covering the cylinder gears, uses a paint brush and white spirit and cleans out any residue from the gears, cylinder bearers etc. Then cleans the inside of the side frames. Any rust could be taken care of, by wrapping a piece of wet & dry- say 240 grit around a steel rule or similar – dipping it white spirit and attacking the offending area. Afterwards brushing the area with a rust remover. I have recently been treating many parts of an SP15 and using an American product. You may well know of it. It is called Evapo Rust. It derusts and protects.
As always photos would help us better assess the situation, but in general, I would caution against disassembly unless it’s mechanically necessary. Is the carriage in good working order?
The main reason to leave it be is that the carriage bearings will become out of adjustment and the side plates held together by the tie rods may become twisted when reassembled. It will be nearly impossible to replicate the factory settings.