Vandercook 4 cornucopia of press noises – rider roller and belt issues maybe?

One of the rider rollers on my Vandercook 4 is loose, rattles when the press is running and seems to be inking slightly unevenly as a result. I can’t find anything in the manual about a part that may be missing or broken, does the rider roller use nyliners also?

The motor is pretty loud and there’s an occasional screechy grinding sound that I think is coming from the main motor or the belt. It seems to keep running and comes and goes but I feel like I should be concerned. I topped up the oil in the speed reducer but can’t figure out where it might go in the main motor.

Video of the issues linked below. I am trying to get this press back into full operation, and feel like I’m flying a little blind.. your help is very much appreciated!

IMG_6801

IMG_6802 IMG_6799

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Paul Moxon, Moderator
Admin
1 month ago

It may be worth contacting a small motor repair shop. They should be able to diagnose your problem, repair it, or source a new motor. If you’re certain the motor is dying, you can search online for a new one. There should be a nameplate, a metal badge with specs including voltage, horsepower (1/4 hp), RPM (1750), frame size (physical dimensions, mounting hole pattern, and shaft diameter. The No. 4 motor should be easier to replace than other models. The RPM may be slightly higher (faster) or lower (slower) than the original motor’s. I have seen motors with lower RPM or variable-speed controls that bypass the Speed Reducer (the bell-shaped gearbox connected to the motor via the belt). If you use the Speed Reducer, save the pulleys (the wheel on the motor shaft. If you bypass the Speed Reducer, let me know. Someone else may need the gear shaft inside. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your solution.

Paul Moxon, Moderator
Admin
10 months ago

The riders have a wood bushing (F-761) on each end. One may have slipped into the hollow of the rider tube. Replacements, available from NA Graphics, are made of Delrin. The oscillator frame must be disassembled to extract the old ones and install new ones:

  • Place the assembly on the bed and remove the tube. 
  • Flip the frame onto a table and knock out one taper pin on each side diagonally, using a loosening punch struck with a 3lb. sledgehammer. (Removing just two pins preserves the orientation of the tapered holes in the tie rods.)
  • Separate the frame by tapping against the inside of the handles, then remove the riders.
  • Use a tie rod to smash the old wood bushings and pour out the broken pieces.
  • Clean the handles and polish the riders.
  • New tie rods can be fabricated from the originals. 
  • Insert the beveled end of new F-761 Delrin bushings into the tubes and tap with a mallet.
  • Reinsert tie rods and taper pins into the handles.

Attached is an image from the forthcoming edition of my maintenance book.
_____________
The motor is sealed and does not require oiling. When you oil the Speed Reducer you’re lubricating two gears inside the bell housing that lower the RPM.
In your video IMG_6801. The belt may rubber against the coffin-shaped belt guard. The motor may not be level to the speed reducer, meaning that small pulley and shaft are not parallel to the large pulley. To adjust, loosen, move, and tighten the nuts on the support rods hanging from the speed reducer. Another option is to add washers to the belt guard screws to move the guard away from the pulleys

rider-repair
Last edited 10 months ago by Paul Moxon, Moderator





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