I had my motor rewound last year, and after putting it back in the press, I noticed that the drum would stop rotating from time to time, and sometimes the press would not turn on, even though the light turns on. This week, it won’t start up at all even though the light switch turns on. I’m going to try to change the switch first to see if it’s a bad switch. I saw in another post that The Arm recommended an on/off toggle switch from McMaster Carr. Toggle Switch, DPST, Off-On, 15 Amps. And others mentioned that it should be 110v. And Paul, I saw that you said Grainger has comparable switches. I’m in a pinch for time since there is a project deadline, so I’m trying to find a switch locally. If it is 20 Amps. and 125v. would it still work?
great, thats good news
The electrician checked the switch, fuse, and motor, and said the electrical and voltage were all good. I asked him to replace the switch since I already got a new one, and with that the press is working again. He said there might have been some loose wire though it didn’t look like it when he checked the old switch. But the good news is that the press is up and running again. Thank you, Ernst and Paul!
For now, I’ll ask an electrician to replace the switch and check the fuse box. There is a little black smudge in the fuse box that I can’t tell if it’s corrosion or blackened from a short. Image attached. If that’s all good, then I’ll take the motor back and see if the capacitor is shot. Since the press would turn on and stop intermittently then start up again, when it was working, that might be the issue.
The belt is not too tight. Another thing to mention is that the other day when I opened up the box to look at the switch wires and I turned the machine on, a spark went off. I think it came from the ground wire but am not sure. I turned it off immediately and unplugged the machine and think it best for me to find an electrician to come look at it. Though, I don’t know if an electrician would know the intricacies of this machine. Any advice?
Ok. Many thanks! Getting help to take a look at this today. Will update.
The serial number is 23028.
If the belt is a toothed timing belt, make sure it and the ink drum pulley is in good condition. Y can find timing belts on Amazon, Grainger, and McMaster-Carr. The industry part number is 180XL38.
Also please send me the serial number for the census.
Loosen the bolts on the motor base and slide toward the ink drum.
Thanks, Paul. I’ll check the belt first. If it is too tight, how do I loosen it? Add oil? I will keep you posted.
I agree with Ernst. The belt may be too tight. Please keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks, Ernst. This is very helpful. I’ll try to trouble shoot the switch and the motor to see where the issue lies and will post an update.
i dont think its the toggle switch, but you can try it yourself, a 20 amp 125 would work as long as it is a dpst = double pole single switch, that means with switching you control 2 circuits at the same time, in your case it means 1 incoming hot line and 1 incoming neutral line to the motor the same contacts go to the control light. it needs a hot and a neutral to work.
as long as the light goes on i am sure the switch is working. my money is at the motor. either mechanical: the belt to the ink drum is to tight or for some reason the drum does not turn easily, or more likely your capacitor on the motor is shot. best is to bring it back to the shop that did the rewind job and they can bench test it. just my 2-cents, maybe it helps?