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kyle van horn
10 years ago

And, as Eric kindly pointed out earlier – this will likely melt if left running dry. Don’t do it!

kyle van horn
10 years ago

I found an after-market blade a number of years back. I just went digging and am pretty sure I’ve found it again. It’s made by Santec Co., and while it’s not a true replacement blade (it’s all plastic, not plastic/metal) it does work pretty well.

Here is their wash-up blade section, and it’s model #1540-117 (or just dig through the dropdowns to find it). They’re $26 before shipping, or you can get a 20% discount if you order 100 or more. They also make one for the SP-15.

As I recall, it took a bit of fussing, screwing the blade in just right, to keep it straight and true against the cylinder. It’s definitely not as good as the originals, but it’s a fine stop-gap for $26.

Paul – did you ever put those nylon bolts & nuts to the test?

Eric Holub
10 years ago

If you do have the holder, the rest is simple. The holder has the spacing of the holes, the length is same as the drum (you might even have a broken stub still in place as a partial template). The width is determined by observing the position of the holder relative to the drum when engaged. As the blade wears, the support screw is adjusted to compensate, so position that accordingly. The bevel will mostly be away from the drum, but maybe a slight bevel on the face.
Sold my SP-20 many years ago, so can’t give more specific specs.

Eric Holub
10 years ago

The best washup blades are made from phenolic resin board (as used in circuit boards), which is sometimes used as packing by foil stampers. I’ve seen cheap plastic blades that will melt from friction if left unattended and run dry.
Once cut to size and given mounting holes, the board needs a bevel to squeegee off the ink slurry.

thomas gravemaker
10 years ago

I ordered mine from NA Graphics, perfect service!

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