I am in the process of removing one side plate of my no. 4’s carriage to get to the oil hole block that oils the eccentric bar. Pardon my lack of correct nomenclature for the parts.

I am stuck with this part right here, these don’t seem like taper pins but more like rivets, and not the POP kind. There are two set-screws that I already removed, but this piece won’t give way.

I feel stuck, like I’ve hit a real life impasse.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks a bunch. I’m really close to completion. This is the final repair.

As a bonus I’m also posting a photo of the repaired clutch plate, filled with brass solder by my local trusted machinist :)


Warning: Attempt to read property "content" on int in /home/p4ulm0x0n/public_html/vandercookpress.info/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/third_party_compat/module.third_party_compat.php on line 490

Warning: Attempt to read property "content" on int in /home/p4ulm0x0n/public_html/vandercookpress.info/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/products/photocrati_nextgen/modules/third_party_compat/module.third_party_compat.php on line 490

8 thoughts on “Please help!”

  1. I know it’s out of time. But since I still need to paint the sides, this wasn’t going to be its final position.
    I just engaged the carriage to make the oil hole block repair.
    But I’m thinking if I time it so that the taper pin’s small end is upwards it’ll be easier to tap it out. Then when this repair is made, I will retime the rod and will retime the impression cylinder.
    Sound good? Makes sense?

  2. Yeah, it is out of time. Timing the cylinder to the bed rack, and timing the trip mechanism are different problems.

  3. Wait.. Paul,

    I’m thinking now that I need to retime this rod/eccentric.
    By removing the trip rack and push it up or down for it to rotate the rod until I get to this position you have on your press, right??? This makes sense to me right now.

  4. Hmm, what worries me now is that that pin is not in that position when my press is in print in the middle of the bed, as this photo was taken with the press in print and in the middle of the bed.
    Does the cylinder timing matters for that?
    I installed the carriage back on to make this repair, but I didn’t bother timing it, although I marked it before removing it the first time.
    Also I have a saved screenshot of your explanation for timing and position. But I’m wondering if it’s the timing or it’s something that someone messed up before, thus explaining the upside-down oil hole block.
    I’m in a moment of frustration over this issue. I’m almost certain the trip rack is correct when it’s at the feedboard end, but I’m finding it hard to travel through the trip wedges (rear and front), but that might be lack of lubrication.

    What do.. what do..

  5. It would be a taper pin, not a rivet. Such a small piece might not have a visually obvious taper (try using drafting dividers to compare ends), and if someone has already tried to beat it out from the wrong end, removal can be difficult.
    You need to be using the right tools and know which way the taper goes. Use a pin punch that is as large as the small end of the pin so force is distributed across the whole end of the pin. I prefer a very heavy hammer–actually a hand maul–and give light taps. Using a light hammer and a smaller punch can lead to the use of excessive and deforming force.

Leave a Comment