Hello everyone. I’m pretty close to completion of my No. 4’s restoration and I’m very eager to have it ready to start printing on January, at the latest February.

I was reassembling the Non-Operator side last night, trying my hand at it, and I thought everything should go smoothly since I took the time to save every screw in plastic organizers (those used for crafts) and labeled everything accordingly.
But to my surprise I still managed to lose three screws:

  • The handle set screw (actually the one for my SP-15, but I believe they are the same)
  • A bed rack screw
  • And the one that locks the safety bar to the trip wedge mechanism.

So, I guess I wasn’t that careful after all, or the gnomes decided to take those three screws for their own amusement, ha!

If you have any spare sets of these screws, I’d be more than grateful. If not, I guess I’ll have the machinist work on them.

Other than that the press looks pretty rad now all rust free and ready to be painted. I guess I’ll need to remove these parts one more time before I paint it.

ALSO: What parts on the non-operator side are painted and which are not?

I’d really like your input on this, because my press was in such negligent condition when I got it that was really hard to tell which parts originally had paint and which did not. Please if you can post here as a comment a clear picture of what your non-operator side looks like, I could really use that.

 

THANKS, everyone :)

Happy Thanksgiving this week.


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14 thoughts on “Re-assembling a No. 4 – getting ready to paint”

  1. Yeah, I have no idea either.
    Too bad this will have to wait until I get back from the holidays on January.
    I am swamped with print work and I’m shutting down operations on Dec. 10th.
    So.. we’ll see what works for this.
    Thanks for all your input, Jarvis.

  2. I have no experience of your prôposal I am afraid, if you are going to anti-rust the interior best not to coat with anything. you need something abrasive to remove rust, their might be mobile sand blasters where you live, eg for building restoration or vehicle repair?

  3. I like the idea of sandblasting it.
    At the university where I studied they have a sand blasting cabinet, the thing is it’s not big enough to fit the cylinder inside it.
    Maybe a pressurized washer can work, followed by quickly drying with compressed air and a hairdryer and a pressurized coat of mineral spirits to displace moisture?

  4. Hi -like you I wanted the press to be good as possible- I just got nervous about bits of rust/debris falling out when the cylinder rolls over onto type/polymer plate etc etc, can you take the cylinder to someone who could sand/shotblast the inside for 20 mins, might be quicker in the long run!!

  5. Yeah, the reel rod won’t come out without disassembling the whole carriage. Bummer. I actually have the carriage off the bed right now, the dremel extension is a good advice, but my press is REALLY dirty in there, so.. you just gave me an idea. Since I have it off the carriage it’s easier to spray in there. So I might give it a go with some paint remover which has helped me remove really stuck grime, and then just use a long brush and a towel to clean up in there.
    I don’t know… is it really that bad to have dirt in there?
    I might in the end just leave it like that.

  6. I remember I just about manag to ge inside the cylinder with a small Dremel and wire brush tool on a flexible shaft, but it needed sandpapering as well then sealing up, I could not get the tympan reel rod off so it was very difficult, but I felt worthwhile to paint it.
    Could try sandblasting/dry ice cleaning inside the cylinder if it is separate from the carriage.

  7. Thanks for your comments, Jarvis.
    I’m really exhausted after a year working on the press, and I want to hurry up and paint it.
    I already painted some of the inside of the cabinets, actually the one bellow the ink drum.
    It was a really tiresome job to clean up those cabinets since it is really hard to reach in there.
    Once it’s dry and sanded the paint just protects everything so, I’m not that worried about moisture in there.
    The inside of the cylinder is very dirty, but I don’t think I’ll be doing that, besides minor scrubbing with the hand wire brush.
    What other product is there like DINITROL?

    Thanks again!

  8. Hi Enrique-left a post on flickr where you had photos of the press nearly ready to paint, just in case you have not seen it-painted shiny bits like these with DINITROL 4010m high temperature coating wax, apparently when it hardens it is virtually impossible to get off-it is used to protect chrome work eg motorbike exhausts. look on my earlier post on the Western Press what I have left unpainted(but coated), mainly because the carriage sides either weren’t originally painted or it all had fallen off.

    !

  9. Hi Paul,

    Well, given the chance to get more than one, two of the non-operator side seem pretty worn, and are actually not tightening at all. So, if you could spare 3, that’d be great :)
    Thanks a lot!

    Anyways, any chance of looking at a photo of your non-operator side?

    Thanks again!

  10. Handle set screw: 1/2-13 x 1/2″
    bed rack screw: 10-32 X 5/8″ Fillister head
    safety bar screw: 1/4-20 X 1/2″ Flathead

    The set screw and the flathead are common, Fillister head is not. I had to order a 100 from McMaster. How many do you need?

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