Re-assembling a No. 4 – getting ready to paint

Hello everyone. I’m pretty close to completion of my No. 4’s restoration and I’m very eager to have it ready to start printing on January, at the latest February.

I was reassembling the Non-Operator side last night, trying my hand at it, and I thought everything should go smoothly since I took the time to save every screw in plastic organizers (those used for crafts) and labeled everything accordingly.
But to my surprise I still managed to lose three screws:

  • The handle set screw (actually the one for my SP-15, but I believe they are the same)
  • A bed rack screw
  • And the one that locks the safety bar to the trip wedge mechanism.

So, I guess I wasn’t that careful after all, or the gnomes decided to take those three screws for their own amusement, ha!

If you have any spare sets of these screws, I’d be more than grateful. If not, I guess I’ll have the machinist work on them.

Other than that the press looks pretty rad now all rust free and ready to be painted. I guess I’ll need to remove these parts one more time before I paint it.

ALSO: What parts on the non-operator side are painted and which are not?

I’d really like your input on this, because my press was in such negligent condition when I got it that was really hard to tell which parts originally had paint and which did not. Please if you can post here as a comment a clear picture of what your non-operator side looks like, I could really use that.


THANKS, everyone :)

Happy Thanksgiving this week.

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Jonathan Jarvis
11 years ago

“there” is correct english!

Jonathan Jarvis
11 years ago

I have no experience of your prôposal I am afraid, if you are going to anti-rust the interior best not to coat with anything. you need something abrasive to remove rust, their might be mobile sand blasters where you live, eg for building restoration or vehicle repair?

Jonathan Jarvis
11 years ago

Hi -like you I wanted the press to be good as possible- I just got nervous about bits of rust/debris falling out when the cylinder rolls over onto type/polymer plate etc etc, can you take the cylinder to someone who could sand/shotblast the inside for 20 mins, might be quicker in the long run!!

Jonathan Jarvis
11 years ago

I remember I just about manag to ge inside the cylinder with a small Dremel and wire brush tool on a flexible shaft, but it needed sandpapering as well then sealing up, I could not get the tympan reel rod off so it was very difficult, but I felt worthwhile to paint it.
Could try sandblasting/dry ice cleaning inside the cylinder if it is separate from the carriage.

Jonathan Jarvis
11 years ago

international suppliers for airline support—–try farm machinary suppliers, car restoration/’glamourising” places for this kind of product, otherwise I have no idea!
keep going for the final push, then you will have photos of it restored to show any grandchildren………!

Jonathan Jarvis
11 years ago

Hi Enrique-left a post on flickr where you had photos of the press nearly ready to paint, just in case you have not seen it-painted shiny bits like these with DINITROL 4010m high temperature coating wax, apparently when it hardens it is virtually impossible to get off-it is used to protect chrome work eg motorbike exhausts. look on my earlier post on the Western Press what I have left unpainted(but coated), mainly because the carriage sides either weren’t originally painted or it all had fallen off.


Paul Moxon, Moderator
11 years ago

Here’s one of the front trip wedge.

Paul Moxon, Moderator
11 years ago

Handle set screw: 1/2-13 x 1/2″
bed rack screw: 10-32 X 5/8″ Fillister head
safety bar screw: 1/4-20 X 1/2″ Flathead

The set screw and the flathead are common, Fillister head is not. I had to order a 100 from McMaster. How many do you need?

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