Trip/Print diagram

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a clearer trip-print lever system diagram or blueprint than the one in the manual.

My no. 4 was pretty complete parts-wise, besides a few knobs and bumper springs, but one thing I noticed at the beginning was that the trip-print lever mechanism was “disengaged” and wouldn’t do a thing.

I seriously wanted to avoid looking at this for as long as I could, but since I’ve made a lot of progress in the restoration of this press, it’s time for me to face the facts.

And so I did. I started looking at the manual, and trying to feel up the parts, trying to look at the parts, which are pretty much hidden behind the rails.

But after some time I figured out I was missing a couple of screws. A retaining or set screw for the lift arm to the lift rod, and a screw on the handle support near the lift arm.

I also tightened a screw on the handle support near the lever, and one in the middle of the lift handle.

For a moment everything worked, the trip-print lever would lift the rear trip wedge, and lower it to, and stay on either position. But then after trying it a few times, the lift handle would disengage from the lift arm and stop working.

At least when trying to lift the lever to go into print mode it would lift the wedge. But when lowering it to go to trip mode it would feel disengaged.

Also where the lift handle (MS-138) meets the lift arm pin (MR-170), I’m suspecting the piece is broken. It has a shape that allows it to disengage, from what I’ve felt it doesn’t feel broken, but it certainly doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. Let me use this photo to explain myself better:

Does anyone have any advice? I hope we haven’t hit an online impasse with this issue, since there is no onsite help near.

Please bear with me to figure out how to fix this. I’m willing to go as far as lifting the bed (I’d actually like to take the Ink Drum off for EvapoRust soaking if given the opportunity).

So.. that’s it.. I’ve highlighted all the pieces I worked with so far. I think everything is there.


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Kyle Schlesinger
11 years ago

Thanks again Enrique. I’m going to try to find the right wrench for the job when the stores are open again tomorrow. Best in 2013! Kyle

Kyle Schlesinger
11 years ago

Enrique, thank you for this very helpful diagram. One more question: does the lift handle simply rest under the lift arm pin, or are they connected somehow? The trip can work properly now, but not consistently because the lift handle disengages from the lift arm every 3 or 4 times I hit the trip.

Kyle Schlesinger
11 years ago

I ordered a newly machined lift arm and pin from NA Graphics (thanks Fritz!) and I’m attempting to install it on my 4. Everything looks pretty straight forward, but when the bolt that secures the flat side of the lift rod makes contact (entering through the top of the lift arm) the rear trip wedge is upside down. I believe the thick side of the lift arm that connect tot he lift handle should be on the operator’s side. Can anyone let me know what’s wrong with this picture? Much appreciated.

Fritz Klinke
11 years ago

I will be having both the MR-170 pin and MS-276 Lift arm made shortly but if these are problem parts, I’ll increase the order.


Paul Moxon, Moderator
11 years ago

I think the nut is tightened against the bracket, but there is slack between the bracket and the short bar (because it is threaded and/or between the short bar and the lift arm.

Try loosening the nut and then turn the short bar clockwise on the bolt, then retighten. Here I think that rust maybe helpful in keeping tension.

If this doesn’t help, stuf some old tympan in the lift handle wedge (MS-269).

When the mechanism fails the default is print mode. The instances when the operator needs to shift the lever to trip are few and it is a convenient position that one hold can hold it until the carriage clears the rear trip wedge. Not bad as workarounds go.

Paul Moxon, Moderator
11 years ago

Enrique, as you’ve found out, it is difficult to access.

The shape of the right end of MS-138 lift handle is correct as is. What is missing is a horizontal pin on the left side of the lift arm (MR-170), which would keep the lift handle end from separating. This is less important than tightening the bolt and keeping the short unlabeled bar (highlighted in the side view drawing) horizontal. This is the pivot point of the handle and where the necessary tension to hold the desire mode happens.

You’ll need to get a 1/2″ box wrench on the head of the bolt (usually, the sheet metal must be pried out) and a socket or racketing wrench on the nut. Inspect the threads on the bolt, they may be stripped., but can be found in a hardware store. The short bar is threaded.

Here’s a thread from a few years ago on the same topic.

Last edited 11 months ago by Paul Moxon, Moderator
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