Thanks Dave and Paul! Ive made progress. The left truss post had to come out in order for the roller to clear. WD-40 and vice grips didn’t help, so I tried PB50 and a monkey wrench and it came out easily. Once that was off it was easy to get the cylinder onto the tracks. Right now when I roll it all the way to the right the handle is at 6 o’clock, when I roll it to he left it is at 4’oclock at the end. It seems right? But will have to do some test prints.
My next question is how tight should the under rollers next to the handle be? There seems to be a lot of play, is there a rule of thumb for adjusting that?
Dave Celani
5 years ago
I have a single truss 01. I’ve had it apart for moving several times. What can I help you with? Lay the cylinder down on the track on the left side with the handle facing down. When it makes one revolution, the handle will be straight down on the right side. Actually, it’s one or two teeth in from the ends.
The uprights on the truss come off but they don’t have to. Don’t mess with any adjustments on the front (crank side) of the cylinder assembly. It will throw the machine off.
The rear wheel, by the gear, rides under the horizontal part of the truss. Sometimes they would have shims to raise the truss to allow the wheel to move better. If there were any, they probably got lost in the move.
It looks like new screws on the track. Now is the time to remove the track if you intend to clean it.
There is a rubber mat under the tympan. They are expensive to replace. NA Graphics was the only place I could get one.
Dave Celani
Photos would help. I will send you catalog images of your press. This will help you see the original timing of the cylinder.
Since there’s not likely any marks on the gear or rack, it’ll be trial and error. Just be patient and enlist some strong friends.
Thanks Dave and Paul! Ive made progress. The left truss post had to come out in order for the roller to clear. WD-40 and vice grips didn’t help, so I tried PB50 and a monkey wrench and it came out easily. Once that was off it was easy to get the cylinder onto the tracks. Right now when I roll it all the way to the right the handle is at 6 o’clock, when I roll it to he left it is at 4’oclock at the end. It seems right? But will have to do some test prints.
My next question is how tight should the under rollers next to the handle be? There seems to be a lot of play, is there a rule of thumb for adjusting that?
I have a single truss 01. I’ve had it apart for moving several times. What can I help you with? Lay the cylinder down on the track on the left side with the handle facing down. When it makes one revolution, the handle will be straight down on the right side. Actually, it’s one or two teeth in from the ends.
The uprights on the truss come off but they don’t have to. Don’t mess with any adjustments on the front (crank side) of the cylinder assembly. It will throw the machine off.
The rear wheel, by the gear, rides under the horizontal part of the truss. Sometimes they would have shims to raise the truss to allow the wheel to move better. If there were any, they probably got lost in the move.
It looks like new screws on the track. Now is the time to remove the track if you intend to clean it.
There is a rubber mat under the tympan. They are expensive to replace. NA Graphics was the only place I could get one.
Dave Celani
They’re most likely pinnned to a block, which in turn may be blocked. If the carriage clears the posts, then I would leave them in place.
Photos above. Do the two vertical posts need to be removed? Because they don’t seem to want to budge.
Photos would help. I will send you catalog images of your press. This will help you see the original timing of the cylinder.
Since there’s not likely any marks on the gear or rack, it’ll be trial and error. Just be patient and enlist some strong friends.